Walk into any barbershop and you will see a shelf full of products. Pomades, clays, pastes, creams. The options are endless and the labels rarely explain who they are actually for. Here is how professional barbers think about products, and how to figure out which one belongs in your bathroom.
Two questions that determine everything
Before picking a product, a barber asks two things: do you want a shiny or matte finish, and how much hold do you need?
Shine versus matte is mostly personal preference, but it also depends on the style. Slick, structured looks suit a glossy finish. Textured, natural styles look better with a matte product. Hold is more practical: the shorter and more structured the style, the more hold you need. A long, loose style can get away with light hold. A tight fade with a styled top usually needs medium to strong hold.
Answer those two questions and you eliminate most of the shelf immediately.
Pomade: shine, hold, and flexibility
Pomade is one of the most versatile products in a barber's kit and one of the most misunderstood. It comes in two forms: water-based and oil-based.
Water-based pomade is what most barbers reach for. It gives a medium to high shine, offers flexible hold that you can restyle throughout the day, and washes out easily with water. It works well for slick backs, side parts, and any style where a clean, polished look is the goal. It suits most hair types, though fine hair benefits most from lighter formulas.
Oil-based pomade gives a stronger, longer-lasting hold and a higher shine, but it is harder to wash out and can build up on the scalp over time. Most professional barbers use it sparingly and usually recommend water-based for daily use.
Clay and paste: texture and matte finish
Clay and paste are the go-to products for modern, textured styles. Both give a matte or low-shine finish and work best on dry or slightly damp hair.
Clay has a stronger hold and adds volume by lifting the hair at the roots. It is particularly effective on thicker hair and suits styles like a textured crop or a mid fade with volume on top. Apply it to dry hair and work it through with your fingers for the best result.
Paste sits between pomade and clay. It gives a natural, low-shine finish with medium hold and is one of the most forgiving products to work with. It suits most hair types and styles, which is why it is a common first recommendation from barbers for clients who are new to styling products. American Crew Fiber is a well-known example that many barbers keep on hand.
Cream and mousse: for longer or curly hair
Styling cream is a lighter product that adds definition and softness without stiffness. It works well on longer hair, scissor cuts, and styles where you want a natural look with minimal hold. It is also a good option for men with fine hair who find heavier products too much.
Mousse is specifically designed for curly or wavy hair. It enhances the natural curl pattern, reduces frizz, and adds definition without weighing the hair down. It is applied to damp hair before drying, which sets the curl shape as the hair dries. For men with curly hair, mousse is often the most effective styling product available.
What barbers use during the cut itself
The products a barber uses during your appointment are different from what you use at home. During a cut, barbers often apply a light spray or setting lotion to damp hair to control it while cutting. After a fade, they may use a small amount of clay or paste to show you how the finished style looks when styled properly.
At MensPlace, Ogun will often walk you through which product suits your cut and how to apply it at home. That kind of practical advice at the end of an appointment is worth more than any product description on a label.
How much product do you actually need?
Most men use too much. A common rule among barbers is to start with a coin-sized amount, work it between your palms until it is evenly distributed, and apply it to dry or slightly damp hair from the back forward. You can always add a little more if needed. Too much product makes hair look heavy, greasy, or stiff regardless of how good the product is.
One product used correctly will outperform three products used wrong every time.
Book an appointment at MensPlace
Not sure which product is right for your cut? Ask at your next appointment. MensPlace is located at De Clercqstraat 100 in Amsterdam Oud-West, within walking distance of Overtoom. You can book online or walk in when a slot is available.